By Valerie Steele
Chief Curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute
of Technology, NY
Introduction to the photograpgy book "Messengers Syle" by
Philippe Bialobos, Assouline 2000
I was talking with my friend James Ellis of Cockcroach Couriers (“We
step on it”) in order to get the inside story on why messengers are so
stylish. As a fashion historian, I know that in the past, fashion was
hierarchical, trickling down from the elite to the masses. Ever since
the 1960s, however, fashion influences have often come up from the
street. Today bicycle messengers have created one particular kind of
street style with a tremendous influence on fashion. I wanted to know
why.
“A lot of people want to be messengers,” James says. “It’s about
freedom. The boss is not on your back.” Experts on street style, such
as Ted Polhemus, agree that subcultural identity is symbolized by
street style, which conveys a desirable aura of authenticity. When high
fashion draws on street style, it’s not only because there is something
special about the clothes. It is the lifestyle and attitude associated
with subcultural clothing styles which attracts attention. Sometimes
straight people want to live the life. For example, James says he knows
of a lawyer, a former district attorney, who gave it up to become a
bike messenger. More often, civilians simply acquire elements of the
look.
According to James, “You have to be comfortable…and stylish. You wear
basically the same thing every day, so it becomes your trademark.. You
have to find your own style.” Looking at the pictures in this book, it
is clear that some messengers favor aerodynamic athletic style, while
others look like ninjas. There is punk style and paramilitary style,
Afrocentric style and grunge style. All have had an impact on designer
fashion. But central to messenger style is the need for comfortable
clothes that work.
Form follows function. A good shirt for example should be made of
material that breathes and dies quickly. Otherwise, with all that
physical exercise, you’ll get sweaty and then chilled. As active
sportswear has become increasingly versatile with new high-tech
fabrics, it has increasingly influenced fashion. Within the messenger
subculture, it is possible to wear a range of sportswear brands,
although a brand like Bellwether or Pearlizumi is regarded as looking
especially profession. “It’s the equivalent to a B-boy wearing Fubu,”
says James. “This is our DKNY.”
Like your clothes, “your bike reflects you as a person. You gotta have
a good bike. That’s our Lexus, our Cherokee.” As these references to
popular culture indicate, within a street style like the messenger
look, there are distinctions of quality, which are based partly on
performance and partly on cultural associations. More importantly,
there is a belief that style should reflect personal identity,
including ethnic identity (a B-boy wearing Fubu) and personal
aspirations (our Lexus, our Cherokee). Within modern culture as a
whole, street style is often valued over designer fashion, because the
former is perceived as being more authentic, closer to an individual’s
real identity.
Some messengers gravitate toward clothes that look aerodynamic. It’s
not just a question of functional material and close-fitting styles
that move well. For every guy in skin-tight bicycle shorts, there’s
someone else in camouflage pants, jeans or other hard-wearing trousers
– with one leg rolled up, so it’s doesn’t touch an oily crank. You
seldom see pants that are full below the knee, because excess fabric
can catch in the gears [or chain]. Although civilians may not need to
pay attention to such practical details, they often choose to adopt the
look. Thus, in certain circles it is fashionable to roll up one trouser
leg. In addition, certain design features, like stripes also symbolize
speed and dynamism. James compares it to looking like Voltran.
The complete robotic super hero look would be appropriately
accessorized, from helmet to goggles and gloves – everything but the
cyborg body parts. Many designers have also been attracted to this
futuristic look. Jean Paul Gautier has created cyber-punk fashions. At
the couture house of Givenchy, Alexander McQueen has designed fashions
that draw on computer imagery. Like the individual messengers, these
designers are strongly influenced by certain aspects of popular
culture, such as Japanese animation. Other messengers, like other
designers, prefer a funkier style. Messengers wear bandanas and
baseball caps, Mohawks and dreadlocks. Some wear work boots or special
bike shoes with stiff soles, but the majority of messengers (like the
majority of young people throughout society) opt for regular sneakers –
the shoes that symbolize and facilitate speed, athleticism and
competition.
This brings us to the purpose of the job – delivering messages and
packages. In most cities, it is a dangerous job to be a messenger. If
the motorists don’t get you, there are the thieves. It is necessary to
be prepared. Real messengers have essential equipment to deal with this
need, but civilians can also identify. The messenger bag has become a
popular fashion item with civilians because it is easy to carry and
holds a lot of stuff. Today almost everyone is an urban nomad, so it’s
not surprising that we’ve discovered the advantages of a bag that’s
waterproof, tear resistant, and distributes the weight ergonomically. A
bright yellow or red bag has the additional advantage of being highly
visible to motorists.
There is another big reason messengers are trendsetters. Today
sportswear is the single most important influence on contemporary
clothing, and the hard body has become the ultimate fashion accessory.
Working as bike messenger tends to give you a great body. All day long,
you’re engaged in both aerobic exercise (pedaling) and weight lifting
(carrying the bicycle chains). Other people go to the gym after work.
Messengers work out at work. As a result, not only do they have hard
bodies, but their profession virtually requires they wear trendsetting
clothes that show off just how fit they are.
Strong, brave, fast and free. No wonder we admire messengers and their
style.
